We all know how it is, we look and look, and if we’re lucky, we find The Perfect Thing. Whether it’s a beautifully flattering cashmere cardigan, a smooth, perfectly-appropriate jersey dress, or a pair of rich, dark-wash jeans that are to-die!

So, because this "Perfect Thing" is so particularly perfect, we invest in it knowing it makes us look our best. Sometimes, to be smart, we even buy two! Now. How do we KEEP that lovely item looking new?

We’ve all had those fashion disasters: a favorite sweater shrunken and felted in the wash, or stretched out beyond recognition. The tailored silk blouse that once looked so polished now hangs funny, or the dark wash jeans that are so faded they look more like mom jeans! There are ways to prevent these tragedies.

Taking care of your fashion treasures is key. If you love something, follow these guidelines below to help keep it looking brand new for months and years after you bring it home!

GENERAL FABRIC CARE GUIDELINES

Cotton:

Something that is 100% cotton is usually washable AND dryable, meaning you can run it through both the washing machine and the dryer. HOWEVER, as in all things fabric, ERR ON THE SIDE OF CAUTION.

Note on using dryer: FOR TOPS, cotton or otherwise (even ones that say “tumble dry”) I RARELY, IF EVER, USE MY DRYER.

The dryer, for all it makes the softest, warmest, most delicious-smelling piles of clean laundry, also breaks down fibers. It just does. That’s part of why the clothes are so wonderfully soft! So….if you want your favorite tee shirts to stay fresh, shapely and bright, do not put them in the dryer. I hang all of my favorite tees on a laundry rack next to the washer, taking a moment to lovingly straighten any wrinkles out while I’m at it, knowing that they’ll look all the better when they’ve air dried if I shape them now. You can look at this like it’s an extra-step, or you can see it as a chance to easily make sure your beautiful tees that you searched out and love look fabulous every time you wear them! So, cotton or not, my personal advice is to HANG DRY, LINE DRY, OR DRY FLAT EVERY TOP, INCLUDING TEES. However, if you must wash your top in the machine, and it is safe to do so, follow these suggestions for the least impactful method:

• For machine-wash cotton tops I use a gentle cycle and cold water. This is the least damaging kind of wash cycle and will use less energy if you’re not using hot water. Less shrinkage, too!
• Wash light cottons (such as tees) separately from heavy cottons (such as jeans). This will cut down on the damage to lighter fibers. Wash cotton towels separate from jeans, as well. The fluff in the towels coats the denim and needs to be removed later.
• Besides coming in many familiar forms, such as tee shirts and denim, cotton is also commonly found in twill, corduroy, and seersucker. Watch your labels to best decide on how to wash and dry. When in doubt, wash cotton items on gentle, cold cycle and hang to dry.
  

On bleaching white cotton tees and tops:

I like to bleach my white cottons every season to freshen them, not just for stain removal. To do so I get a 1 quart container and fill it with cold water. I add about ½ c of bleach to the water. I start the cold water cycle of the washer WITHOUT PUTTING THE CLOTHES IN YET, and wait for it to fill. When there is a good amount of water in the machine, I add the bleach solution and allow it to dilute. Then I add the clothes and let the machine finish its cycle. When they come out! Get out your shades! They’re white and bright!

On washing and drying jeans:

• I always wash my jeans zipped up and inside out. This helps keep the dye from washing out, keeping them darker longer.
• I usually hang dry my jeans, but if I like a pair to fit snugly I will throw them in the dryer, making sure they are still zipped up and inside out.

It is possible to use the dryer sparingly on tops when you need to air out wrinkles. Usually this works best on polyester tops, or some rayon, or linen blends, but read the label on the tops carefully, and use as cool a dryer as possible for this operation.

Rayon:

Rayon is a beautiful, silky fabric that drapes well. Its fibers are weaker than that of cotton and it needs to be handled carefully.

• Check the label to see if it is washable rayon. If it is, wash it on a gentle, cool cycle and remove promptly from washer.
• Roll in a dry towel to remove excess moisture, then hang or lie flat, smoothing wrinkles.
• When necessary, use a light steam iron on the inside of the garment. It takes some work, but rayon is such an elegant, comfortable fabric it’s worth it!
  
  

Linen:

Linen is a wonderful, natural fabric that is hangs well and keeps you cool when you wear it! It is absorbent which means it wicks moisture and also absorbs more moisture when being washed.

• If you have washable linen (check label) wash it in a loosely-packed washer on a gentle cycle at recommended heat setting. If in doubt, use cold.
• Line dry linen to keep color bright or whites fresh.
• Tumble dry low if you prefer a softer linen as this fabric gets softer with every wash and dry.
• Linen often needs ironing, as it wrinkles easily. Ironing on the outside of the fabric will produce a sheen, sometimes desirable, sometimes not. If you don’t prefer a sheen, iron on the inside of the fabric. Use a steam setting.
  
  

Washable Silk:

Washable or not, I hand-wash all my silk garments.

• However, using a gentle or hand-wash cycle on your machine should be fine for washable silk. Only pre-washed silk is washable, so check the label. If it isn’t, then hand wash in cool water and with mild soap.
• Once again check the label to make sure silk is pre-washed in order to use the dryer. If so, use a cool setting. If not, lay flat to dry, shaping garment and smoothing to cut down on wrinkles.
• When necessary, use a cool iron on a cool setting for silk.
  
  

Nylon:

Nylon is a wonderful, elastic fabric that is lightweight and resists shrinkage.

• When washing nylon in general use a warm or cold setting, or hand wash. Check label for specific washing instructions however, sometimes a blend can mean a different approach.
• Tumble dry low with setting on permanent press that has a cool-down. Remove promptly to prevent wrinkling. Or, drip dry or lay flat!
• Ironing nylon is not recommended, but if absolutely necessary use very low setting.
  
  

Cashmere:

I don’t wash cashmere in the machine. Even if the label says you can, I don’t. The fibers are so soft that my sweaters loose their shape immediately and the nap of the sweater is too impacted by a machine.

• I always hand wash my cashmere garments with mild soap and cool water.
• Gently roll garments in a dry towel when washed, to absorb excess moisture.
• When garment is ready, spread flat to dry, shaping as you go. I like to fluff the piece once or twice during the drying process to allow air to circulate beneath it, maybe flip it over once and re-smooth.
• Cashmere pills. For all that it is the softest, most luxurious knit we all love, it pills like crazy and can look like a cheap acrylic sweater if you’re not careful! For this reason I bought an amazing little gadget called a “de-piller”. They are also called “Fuzz-Busters”. It is a small, handheld shaver that you run over the sweater and it shaves off the pills! It cost under 8 dollars at a fabric store, and is worth its weight in gold. Put on a movie, get out your Fuzz-Buster and work over that cashmere sweater. It’s actually kind of meditative! And your sweater (and you in it) will look BRAND NEW when you’re finished!

Washable Wool

• Check label for washing instructions. I usually hand-wash all of my wools, or get them dry cleaned, but you can use the “hand-wash” or gentle cycle on your washing machine. Easy care wool knits can be washed on the wool cycle with warm or cool water. Dry cleaning once a year is usually enough.
• Drying wool is the same as with cashmere: roll gently in a towel to absorb excess moisture, then lay flat to dry, smoothing and shaping garment to lay flat.
• Use the wool or steam setting on the iron to remove wrinkles. Also, hanging wool garments in a steamy bathroom will usually remove major wrinkles.
  
  

*NOTE ON STORING GARMENTS:

Choosing how you store your favorite garments is important to how they look when you go to wear them! As a general rule, I like to hang most of my garments. Exceptions are sweaters that are too loosely knit or too heavy and need to be folded to prevent stretching. These I usually fold lightly and airly, and store them in canvas cubbies in my closet. I never have more than two or three piled on each other at once so they don’t get squished. I fold my denim crisply and squarely and keep in drawers.

For those items that are hung up, I make sure the closet is not so densely packed things are getting wrinkled and crushed. Store your out-of-season garments in a different closet. I like to hang blouses next to their coordinating cardigans. I hang all my jackets and outerwear to the side so they don’t crush any lighter top between them.

I have a small hand-held steamer that is a godsend for quick wrinkle control!

*See “Clean out Your Closet, Clean Out Your Life” for more closet storage tips!

STAIN TREATMENT:

Stains happen. When they do

• treat them promptly, a fresh stain is much easier to remove than an old one. If the stain is on a non-washable fabric take it to the dry cleaner immediately.
• If using a stain removal product, read instructions carefully and test the product on an inside flap of fabric before using. To test, apply product, wait 2-5 minutes and if color hasn’t faded, then it’s safe to use on the garment.
• When cleaning a stain, place stained area face down on a clean paper towel or white cloth. Apply stain remover the the underside of the stain, forcing stain off the fabric surface instead of through it.
• Do not mix stain removal products. Some mixtures, such as ammonia and chlorine bleach, can produce noxious and dangerous fumes!
  
  

DRY CLEANING

Sometimes it is just not possible to wash or dry a garment. Down coats, wool suits, and some rayons and silks just can’t get wet. I usually have my winter coats dry cleaned once or twice a year.

If you try these fabric care tips, you will see how much longer your beautiful garments will look like new! It is a great feeling to pull out your favorite tee shirt the next year and have it look as fresh as your new ones! Remember, when in doubt, hand wash and lay flat to dry!